How To Remove Stubborn Brake Drum?
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Way to go Woody. Great response. Unfortunately there are and always will be those who get there rocks off by downplaying other peopls knowledge. It makes them feel better. I appreciate your integrity. Mark S. –
“My Opinions” please send no unsolicited e-mail I have no interest unless I request it
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What kind of drugs is this guy taking!!! –
An answer to the original post-Did you loosen the starwheel inside the drum? i’ve worked on several trucks of this vintage at that is usually a problem, if you need any more help, post back and i’ll try my best to answer
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If the truck is a 3/4 ton or one ton you might have to pull the axle to get the brake drum off. That’s about the only reason I could think of for having to pull the axle. I have a 72 International camper special, and pulling the axles is the only way to get the drums off of it that I know of. Chris I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes.
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If the truck is a 3/4 ton or one ton you might have to pull the axle to get the brake drum off. That’s about the only reason I could think of for having to pull the axle. I have a 72 International camper special, and pulling the axles is the only way to get the drums off of it that I know of. Chris I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes.
If you have a full fuloating rear axle you will need to remove the axle to get the drum off. Then there is a locking ring that keeps the adjustment nut in place. After removing these you should be able to get the drum off. Watch out they weigh a ton Scott Tucker, Owner Silicon Valley Automotive Mountain View, Ca.
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Vince—I don’t want to start a “thing” here, but I’ve read and reread your response (below) to a gentleman who deserved a better answer. It bothers me. Otherwise, not being in the habit of posting to NGs, I wouldn’t write this. The sender James101 was neither claiming to be a GM engineer nor was he as incorrect as you insinutate. The information provided to him applied precisely as he wrote it—for full floating rear axles. I judge from your closing comment that you are some sort of expert, so I’ll defer my roughly 50 years of experience while you show me how to remove a full floating rear drum without starting with the removal of the axle. And, yes—it is possible, while disassembling a diff. to remove the semi-floating GM C-clips, to dislodge the final outboard gears from the spider assembly. Granted the, ring/pinion won’t fall out, but the sketchy information given to James was in keeping with that problem. I’ve never met James and likely never will, but I read from his post that he has both the common sense to admit his lack of experience and the interest to go get it—as long as he is not beaten down by smart-a.. remarks. He should get viable information and support from those of us in the Geritol Cocktail Club, not insults. Frankly, if one of my mechanics had ever reacted that way to an inquiry, he’d have been down the road. Like I said, I don’t want to start a big-deal thing here, but please, guys, if we can’t help, let’s not hinder. I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes. No way Jose, you most definitely DO NOT have to remove the xles. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. Where did you learn auto mechanics at? None of the above is true. Vince To reply via E-Mail Remove the abc from the reply-to address
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I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes. No way Jose, you most definitely DO NOT have to remove the xles. I’m not sure if this applies to 73-87 models as well as your model or not. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. If you do this, pull one out of a time or the ring and pinion (not sure if that’s the correct term on Chevrolets) will fall out. Where did you learn auto mechanics at? None of the above is true. Well somebody on here agreed with me that on some trucks you have to. So are you saying that there are no trucks whatsoever that you don’t have to remove the axles to do repair work to the brakes? So I’m not an expert when it comes to servicing full size GM pickup trucks. So sue me. Some folks really should pay to get their car (truck) fixed. Sounds like
Most of you guys should, you’ll save money in the long run !!! good luck
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Some penetrating oil, a lot of heat (torches) and a few well placed “love taps” from a hammer/rubber mallet and it should come off. Some other people have suggested that you MUST remove the axle shaft. Unless you have a 1-ton with a full-floating rear-end, you don’t have to, and it depends on what the drum is catching up on. If it’s caught on the shoes, this won’t help, but if it is rusted to the axle flange, removing the axle shaft might allow you to work on it easier. One other suggestion for after you do get it apart… on reassembly, put a light coat of Never Seize on the axle flange. It will come apart much easier next time. Good luck! Jake McMullen 1977 Pro-Street Camaro — And for you automated email spammers out there, here’s the email addresses of the current board of the Federal Communications Commission. I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off?
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I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes. No way Jose, you most definitely DO NOT have to remove the xles. I’m not sure if this applies to 73-87 models as well as your model or not. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. If you do this, pull one out of a time or the ring and pinion (not sure if that’s the correct term on Chevrolets) will fall out. Where did you learn auto mechanics at? None of the above is true.
Well somebody on here agreed with me that on some trucks you have to. So are you saying that there are no trucks whatsoever that you don’t have to remove the axles to do repair work to the brakes? So I’m not an expert when it comes to servicing full size GM pickup trucks. So sue me.
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Use an oxy-acetylene torch on the drum flange around the hub circle and up between the bolts. Use the biggest tip (#5) and do it quickly. The idea is to expand the drum flange sheet metal as quickly as possible so it pops off the axle flange underneath. Years of being squeezed together have rusted the surfaces together- especially on the inside diameter of the hole which now is tight around the axle flange. Once the drum pops off, cool down the flange with wet rags to avoid melting the seals, etc, but actually a total rebuild is probably the best route at this point. Vacuo I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? Thanks in advance.
I had a simailar problem myself. If you are working on the fronts , get a chisel and cut off the head of the retainer spring pins (whatever) on the backplate.You’ve got two to cut. That’s the easy part.If you can spin the drum to bring the access hole to the top . (I realize your drums may not have that hole )try and pop off or break the inner springs, atleast one. If this is sucessful , you may be able to to remove the drum now with some tugging. If not , disassemble the hub, remove the bearing . Now grab that drum w/the hub and tear it off the spindle . carefull not to damage the spindle. brake parts should pour out and your inner springs should all be replaced . the kit to do both side should be no more than $20. Now on a bench it should be allot easier to remove the hub from the drum Whatever you do, do not soak your wheel cylinder boots with WD-40 you may use it on the bench, but try not to get any on the braking surface. and wipe up all residue.. Enjoy GJL — DV8 Productions Custom Animation From Paper to Pixel 3D Animation Modeling Storyboards Direction Design
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What kind of drugs is this guy taking!!! –
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Hi mel- Are we talking about the front brakes or the rear brakes? I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? Thanks in advance.
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Hi mel- The hole knock-outs are not always removed from the drum. But there is almost always the adjuster holes knocked out of the backing plate. Be sure you have the adjusters backed off all the way. Again are these the front brakes or the rear ones? I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? Thanks in advance.
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Use an oxy-acetylene torch on the drum flange around the hub circle and up between the bolts. Use the biggest tip (#5) and do it quickly. The idea is to expand the drum flange sheet metal as quickly as possible so it pops off the axle flange underneath. Years of being squeezed together have rusted the surfaces together- especially on the inside diameter of the hole which now is tight around the axle flange. Once the drum pops off, cool down the flange with wet rags to avoid melting the seals, etc, but actually a total rebuild is probably the best route at this point. Vacuo I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? Thanks in advance.
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I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes.
No way Jose, you most definitely DO NOT have to remove the xles. I’m not sure if this applies to 73-87 models as well as your model or not. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. If you do this, pull one out of a time or the ring and pinion (not sure if that’s the correct term on Chevrolets) will fall out.
Where did you learn auto mechanics at? None of the above is true. Vince To reply via E-Mail Remove the abc from the reply-to address
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I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes. I’m not sure if this applies to 73-87 models as well as your model or not. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. If you do this, pull one out of a time or the ring and pinion (not sure if that’s the correct term on Chevrolets) will fall out.
This would only apply to the larger series trucks … (like the F250 and F350, or models similar) If your truck is GM’s counterpart to Ford’s F150, you wont need to take the full-floating axle out. == Serian
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I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off? Thanks in advance.
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Mel, Make sure the brakes are backed off,clean the rust from around the axle flange and soak the shit out of the drum where it mates to the flange. Do not hit the side of the drum unless you intend to replace them. Hit the flat part of the drum but use good aim as to not hit the studs. If that does not work you can heat them if you have access to a torch. If not then hit the outet edge of the drum but be prepared to buy new. Mark –
“My Opinions” please send no unsolicited e-mail I have no interest unless I request it
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I believe my ‘67 Chevy truck has the original brake shoes. The drums are practically welded to the hub. The metal knock-outs were still in the drum. Any suggestions on how to persuade the drums off?
I’ve never serviced the brakes on a Chevrolet truck but I was told that you have to pull the axle shaft out of the axle in order to service the brakes. I’m not sure if this applies to 73-87 models as well as your model or not. I’ve heard this before and just yesterday on the ICD, a guy was complaing that you had to pull the axle shafts out in order to do any work on them. If you do this, pull one out of a time or the ring and pinion (not sure if that’s the correct term on Chevrolets) will fall out. Posted using public news sever goliat.c3.hu Get your own free forwarding E-mail address http://www.netforward.com
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