Heater Core on '95 Chevy S-10

Question:

oh it’s not that big of a job. I did it in about 5 hours in my driveway. it took about 3.5 hours to get it out and 1.5 to get it back in you pretty much have to remove the whole dash.

> Thank you for relating your experience Big Chris, You’ve convinced me > to go with my local mechanic. ( I was on the edge ) > At least I learned why my A/C blows Hot air (when the A/C is off) in > the summer. and I can fix it for a few bucks worth of plumbing. > Thanks Again, > John Polcari

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Replies inline >especially not at 10F in December in > stuff inbetween… > a driveway in South Dakota > Big Chris

Response:

Thank you for relating your experience Big Chris, You’ve convinced me to go with my local mechanic. ( I was on the edge ) At least I learned why my A/C blows Hot air (when the A/C is off) in the summer. and I can fix it for a few bucks worth of plumbing. Thanks Again, John Polcari > Replies inline >especially not at 10F in December in

stuff inbetween… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> a driveway in South Dakota > Big Chris

Response:

Help! the Heater core on my 95 Chevy S-10 Pickup has blown. I’ve done a bypass under the hood to make the truck driveable, but that means NO HEAT… At first look this seemed do-able by mere mortals. Now I’m not so sure. I can’t get to the screws on the heater box behind the dashboard, even If I remove the radio and cut an access hole in the glovebox. There seems to be a 1/4" steel bar blocking access to one of these upper heater box screws. I’m semi-employed, so I have more time then money. so I’d really like to do this myself. Unless it’s impossible or requires special tools or facilities. I’ve found a web page describing the operation for a pre-94 S-10/Blazer (with the squared front end) Things have changed, it ain’t as easy as it used to be. Questions: Has anybody out there done this on their own? (and care to encourge or discourage me) Is there a manual that really shows one how to do this? I’ve seen the Mitchell CD and it seems extremely vague… anybody know what the going rate to have this done by a (non dealer) pro? What’s the Book time on this job? Is Radiator sealant an Option? (It’s a 95 and the radiator is original and seems like replacing it next summer would be a breeze compared to the heater core) Thanks, John (from Boston) -"No matter where you go.. There you are."-Buckaroo Banzai

Response:

Replies inline

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Help! the Heater core on my 95 Chevy S-10 Pickup has blown. > I’ve done a bypass under the hood to make the truck driveable, but > that means NO HEAT… At first look this seemed do-able by mere > mortals. Now I’m not so sure. I can’t get to the screws on the heater > box behind the dashboard, even If I remove the radio and cut an access > hole in the glovebox. There seems to be a 1/4" steel bar blocking > access to one of these upper heater box screws. > I’m semi-employed, so I have more time then money. so I’d really like > to do this myself. Unless it’s impossible or requires special tools or > facilities. I’ve found a web page describing the operation for a > pre-94 S-10/Blazer (with the squared front end) Things have changed, > it ain’t as easy as it used to be. > Questions: > Has anybody out there done this on their own? (and care to encourge or > discourage me)

yes, it sucks.  I swear I wouldn’t do it again under the same circumstances I did the first time.  A warm garage with plenty of time to do it and I might tackle it again. > Is there a manual that really shows one how to do this? I’ve seen the > Mitchell CD and it seems extremely vague…

Nope. > anybody know what the going rate to have this done by a (non dealer) > pro? > What’s the Book time on this job? > Is Radiator sealant an Option? (It’s a 95 and the radiator is original > and seems like replacing it next summer would be a breeze compared to > the heater core)

Sealant is a poor choice, as it clogs the rest of the system.  That in the long run will reduce cooling ability of your radiator. > Thanks, > John > (from Boston)

Loosen the bolts on either end of the dash that hold the dash in place (one fairly large bolt on each side).  That combined with a flexible attachment, and you should be able to get to the top screws on the housing from under the dash.  Remove the passenger seat prior to working on this and you’ll be much happier.  If you have the ability, taking the door off would also get you some additional room (which is needed when you are my size — 6′3 and 285lbs).  This is one of the most frustrating jobs on this vehicle.  Very poor design, obviously the designer never had to replace a heater core on one of the prior to their production….especially not at 10F in December in a driveway in South Dakota Big Chris

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