Ping: Doc… restore
Question:
Why not try the GM upper cylinder cleaner: Hey Refinish,that stuff really works.Works so well in fact that GM doesn’t sell it any more in California,some smog issue I guess.Luckily I know a GM truck part counter guy who stashed a couple cases.
Response:
The only time Greased Lightening or Purple Power and Castrol Super clean hurt aluminum is when it’s a smooth finish. It does an especially good job of etching glass if left on too long at full strength, But for the most part, it you don’t have a polished set of valve covers, polished manifold or blower, the above cleaner’s caustic acids won’t show the etching on the castings. Refinish King – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Yea if you have the part number I will archive it – and probably be able > to score a can or two before it’s ever needed again. > And you mean the task I did… the approach I used worked this time (on > a very very very tiered engine firing only on 3 up to about 4K rpm). > Thankfully cause I screwed up on the choice of chemicals (sort-of). > I’ve been using the Grease-lighting for general clean up for a while > now, and recently used it side-by-side with Gunk engine cleaner to clean > the outside of a pair of engines getting rebuilt in my garage. The > Greased Lightning seemed to work almost as well as the Gunk while > seeming better suited for overnight soaking (and yep I shoulda read the > label about the Aluminim warning). The manifold on the garage engine is > Aluminum and it soaked in the crevises overnight w/o hurting them so the > warning seems overstated, and maybe a little Al corosiveness contributed > to the solution working so well. God only knows. > Hopefully with the Mobile-1 and Restore it won’t re-gunk and I won’t be > so desperate again, but if it does then it would be worth a try. > Otherwise, I think the Mistery Oil and carb cleaner would probably be > pleanty of tratment. > I’m also thinking I had been overdoing it with the injecter cleaner > since obviously that wasn’t the problem (it seems to have been the > rings). > The Grease lightning and Mistery Oil did shoot chuncks of carbon out the > plug holes when cranked. It was amazing that much crud could come out > from a little engine like that (it was like a cup full of coarse > gun-power mixed with a gallon of soapy pentetrating oil). > Anyway, I’d think the GM chemical is better than what I used. And I did > look for stuff at Autozone – and the lead guy there never heard of > flushing via the spark plug holes or the GM stuf and tried to sell me > some other crap for mixing w/ the oil after the oil change. > Thanks, > Elliott > Why not try the GM upper cylinder cleaner: > Designed especially for the task you are doing? > It will make your skin feel like chewing gum for a monts, if you dont wear > the propper gloves, bot it works so well, your exaust shoots out chunks of > carbon, when it gets into the muffler. > I’ve used it a lot. I have a can in my trunk, but my car is at my friend’s > shop. If you’d like, I can give you the part number or ask Ian, and I think > Doc is a GM dealer Tech? > Good luck! > Refinish King
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > You’re probably right about it being risky – and i hadn’t read the > > warning about Aluminum (that I now see is also on the purple container I > > have). And the engine was so tierd that I did just about everything I > > could to try to get it back – and either something or a combination of > > things did actually do it. If the vehicle is running OK it logical that > > it would be better to stick w/ the Mistery Oil or some other chemical > > for the soaking. Meanwhile, the Saturn is still running like new again > > (it was sooooo tierd before the treatment) and I cannot say it isn’t > > because of the overylyt Aluminmum corosive affect of Greased > > Lightning… Though I won’t try it again anytime soon. > > Elliott > > Still it worked very very well for what I did. > > > I just studied the greased lightning orange blast for possibly cleaning > the > > > radiator on my 89 350, A/T. With the warning to not use on aluminum, I > > > decided to use prestone super flush. I can see rust and gunk on the > inside > > > of the radiator. I don’t see much difference. Perhaps another bottle? > > > Anyway, aren’t the pistons made of aluminum ? Or are they alloy with > > > magnesium ? Greased Lightning in cylinders sounds risky. > > > > Ahhh what a difference!!! > > > > It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old > > > > Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er > > > > out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the > > > > spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to > > > > purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used > > > > carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting > > > > them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were > > > > supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled > > > > the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems > the > > > > water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get > rid > > > > of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) > > > > again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board > (used > > > > to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry > > > > out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to > get > > > > even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was > > > > amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment > > > > when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white > (soapy/oily/watery) > > > > exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a > > > > half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles > > > > smoothe and is peppy again. > > > > Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes > trick… > > > > The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but > then > > > > again it worked as desired). > > > > Elliott > > > > > Thanks MR. > > > > > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still > has > > > > > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using > a > > > > > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery > oil > > > > > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I > pass > > > > > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause > on > > > > > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of > engine > > > > > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper > and > > > > > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > > > > > Elliott > > > > > > Hi Elliott, > > > > > > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest > way > > > I > > > > > > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. > The > > > > > > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big > expense > > > since I > > > > > > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I > forgot > > > to > > > > > > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using > Marvel > > > Mystery > > > > > > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any > > > carbon/gunk > > > > > > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than > others. > > > I > > > > > > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for > the > > > first > > > > > > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching > > > high > > > > > > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes > out > > > the > > > > > > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > > > > > > Best of luck, > > > > > > MR > > > > > > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > > > > > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > > > > > > commercial.. > > > > > > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > > > > > O’reillys > > > > > > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t > checked > > > with > > > > > > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about > running > > > it > > > > > > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been > using > > > mobil > > > > > 1 > > > > > > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred > > > miles > > > > > > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my > > > synethetic > > > > > > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles > > > running > > > > > > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now > > > they > > > > > cost > > > > > > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > > > > > > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be > worth > > > the > > > > > > money.. oppinions? > > > > > > Adair > > > > > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better > > > with > > > > > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the > extra > > > > > couple bucks and plan to keep her
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Response:
Yea if you have the part number I will archive it – and probably be able to score a can or two before it’s ever needed again. And you mean the task I did… the approach I used worked this time (on a very very very tiered engine firing only on 3 up to about 4K rpm). Thankfully cause I screwed up on the choice of chemicals (sort-of). I’ve been using the Grease-lighting for general clean up for a while now, and recently used it side-by-side with Gunk engine cleaner to clean the outside of a pair of engines getting rebuilt in my garage. The Greased Lightning seemed to work almost as well as the Gunk while seeming better suited for overnight soaking (and yep I shoulda read the label about the Aluminim warning). The manifold on the garage engine is Aluminum and it soaked in the crevises overnight w/o hurting them so the warning seems overstated, and maybe a little Al corosiveness contributed to the solution working so well. God only knows. Hopefully with the Mobile-1 and Restore it won’t re-gunk and I won’t be so desperate again, but if it does then it would be worth a try. Otherwise, I think the Mistery Oil and carb cleaner would probably be pleanty of tratment. I’m also thinking I had been overdoing it with the injecter cleaner since obviously that wasn’t the problem (it seems to have been the rings). The Grease lightning and Mistery Oil did shoot chuncks of carbon out the plug holes when cranked. It was amazing that much crud could come out from a little engine like that (it was like a cup full of coarse gun-power mixed with a gallon of soapy pentetrating oil). Anyway, I’d think the GM chemical is better than what I used. And I did look for stuff at Autozone – and the lead guy there never heard of flushing via the spark plug holes or the GM stuf and tried to sell me some other crap for mixing w/ the oil after the oil change. Thanks, Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Why not try the GM upper cylinder cleaner: > Designed especially for the task you are doing? > It will make your skin feel like chewing gum for a monts, if you dont wear > the propper gloves, bot it works so well, your exaust shoots out chunks of > carbon, when it gets into the muffler. > I’ve used it a lot. I have a can in my trunk, but my car is at my friend’s > shop. If you’d like, I can give you the part number or ask Ian, and I think > Doc is a GM dealer Tech? > Good luck! > Refinish King > You’re probably right about it being risky – and i hadn’t read the > warning about Aluminum (that I now see is also on the purple container I > have). And the engine was so tierd that I did just about everything I > could to try to get it back – and either something or a combination of > things did actually do it. If the vehicle is running OK it logical that > it would be better to stick w/ the Mistery Oil or some other chemical > for the soaking. Meanwhile, the Saturn is still running like new again > (it was sooooo tierd before the treatment) and I cannot say it isn’t > because of the overylyt Aluminmum corosive affect of Greased > Lightning… Though I won’t try it again anytime soon. > Elliott > Still it worked very very well for what I did. > > I just studied the greased lightning orange blast for possibly cleaning > the > > radiator on my 89 350, A/T. With the warning to not use on aluminum, I > > decided to use prestone super flush. I can see rust and gunk on the > inside > > of the radiator. I don’t see much difference. Perhaps another bottle? > > Anyway, aren’t the pistons made of aluminum ? Or are they alloy with > > magnesium ? Greased Lightning in cylinders sounds risky. > > > Ahhh what a difference!!! > > > It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old > > > Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er > > > out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the > > > spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to > > > purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used > > > carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting > > > them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were > > > supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled > > > the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems > the > > > water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get > rid > > > of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) > > > again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board > (used > > > to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry > > > out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to > get > > > even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was > > > amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment > > > when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white > (soapy/oily/watery) > > > exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a > > > half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles > > > smoothe and is peppy again. > > > Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes > trick… > > > The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but > then > > > again it worked as desired). > > > Elliott > > > > Thanks MR. > > > > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still > has > > > > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using > a > > > > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery > oil > > > > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I > pass > > > > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause > on > > > > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of > engine > > > > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper > and > > > > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > > > > Elliott > > > > > Hi Elliott, > > > > > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest > way > > I > > > > > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. > The > > > > > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big > expense > > since I > > > > > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I > forgot > > to > > > > > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using > Marvel > > Mystery > > > > > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any > > carbon/gunk > > > > > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than > others. > > I > > > > > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for > the > > first > > > > > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching > > high > > > > > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes > out > > the > > > > > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > > > > > Best of luck, > > > > > MR > > > > > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > > > > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > > > > > commercial.. > > > > > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > > > > O’reillys > > > > > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t > checked > > with > > > > > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about > running > > it > > > > > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been > using > > mobil > > > > 1 > > > > > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred > > miles > > > > > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my > > synethetic > > > > > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles > > running > > > > > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now > > they > > > > cost > > > > > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > > > > > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be > worth > > the > > > > > money.. oppinions? > > > > > Adair > > > > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better > > with > > > > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the > extra > > > > couple bucks and plan to keep her for awhile longer. > > > > Doc
Response:
Why not try the GM upper cylinder cleaner: Designed especially for the task you are doing? It will make your skin feel like chewing gum for a monts, if you dont wear the propper gloves, bot it works so well, your exaust shoots out chunks of carbon, when it gets into the muffler. I’ve used it a lot. I have a can in my trunk, but my car is at my friend’s shop. If you’d like, I can give you the part number or ask Ian, and I think Doc is a GM dealer Tech? Good luck! Refinish King – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > You’re probably right about it being risky – and i hadn’t read the > warning about Aluminum (that I now see is also on the purple container I > have). And the engine was so tierd that I did just about everything I > could to try to get it back – and either something or a combination of > things did actually do it. If the vehicle is running OK it logical that > it would be better to stick w/ the Mistery Oil or some other chemical > for the soaking. Meanwhile, the Saturn is still running like new again > (it was sooooo tierd before the treatment) and I cannot say it isn’t > because of the overylyt Aluminmum corosive affect of Greased > Lightning… Though I won’t try it again anytime soon. > Elliott > Still it worked very very well for what I did. > I just studied the greased lightning orange blast for possibly cleaning the > radiator on my 89 350, A/T. With the warning to not use on aluminum, I > decided to use prestone super flush. I can see rust and gunk on the inside > of the radiator. I don’t see much difference. Perhaps another bottle? > Anyway, aren’t the pistons made of aluminum ? Or are they alloy with > magnesium ? Greased Lightning in cylinders sounds risky.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > Ahhh what a difference!!! > > It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old > > Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er > > out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the > > spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to > > purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used > > carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting > > them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were > > supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled > > the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems the > > water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get rid > > of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) > > again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board (used > > to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry > > out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to get > > even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was > > amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment > > when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white (soapy/oily/watery) > > exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a > > half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles > > smoothe and is peppy again. > > Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes trick… > > The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but then > > again it worked as desired). > > Elliott > > > Thanks MR. > > > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still has > > > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using a > > > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery oil > > > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I pass > > > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause on > > > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of engine > > > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper and > > > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > > > Elliott > > > > Hi Elliott, > > > > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest way > I > > > > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. The > > > > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big expense > since I > > > > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I forgot > to > > > > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using Marvel > Mystery > > > > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any > carbon/gunk > > > > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than others. > I > > > > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for the > first > > > > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching > high > > > > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes out > the > > > > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > > > > Best of luck, > > > > MR > > > > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > > > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > > > > commercial.. > > > > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > > > O’reillys > > > > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t checked > with > > > > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about running > it > > > > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been using > mobil > > > 1 > > > > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred > miles > > > > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my > synethetic > > > > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles > running > > > > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now > they > > > cost > > > > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > > > > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be worth > the > > > > money.. oppinions? > > > > Adair > > > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better > with > > > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the extra > > > couple bucks and plan to keep her for awhile longer. > > > Doc
Response:
Ahhh what a difference!!! It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems the water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get rid of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board (used to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to get even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white (soapy/oily/watery) exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles smoothe and is peppy again. Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes trick… The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but then again it worked as desired). Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Thanks MR. > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still has > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using a > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery oil > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I pass > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause on > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of engine > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper and > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > Elliott > Hi Elliott, > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest way I > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. The > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big expense since I > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I forgot to > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using Marvel Mystery > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any carbon/gunk > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than others. I > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for the first > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching high > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes out the > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > Best of luck, > MR > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > commercial.. > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > O’reillys > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t checked with > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about running it > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been using mobil > 1 > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred miles > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my synethetic > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles running > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now they > cost > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be worth the > money.. oppinions? > Adair > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better with > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the extra > couple bucks and plan to keep her for awhile longer. > Doc
Response:
You’re probably right about it being risky – and i hadn’t read the warning about Aluminum (that I now see is also on the purple container I have). And the engine was so tierd that I did just about everything I could to try to get it back – and either something or a combination of things did actually do it. If the vehicle is running OK it logical that it would be better to stick w/ the Mistery Oil or some other chemical for the soaking. Meanwhile, the Saturn is still running like new again (it was sooooo tierd before the treatment) and I cannot say it isn’t because of the overylyt Aluminmum corosive affect of Greased Lightning… Though I won’t try it again anytime soon. Elliott Still it worked very very well for what I did. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > I just studied the greased lightning orange blast for possibly cleaning the > radiator on my 89 350, A/T. With the warning to not use on aluminum, I > decided to use prestone super flush. I can see rust and gunk on the inside > of the radiator. I don’t see much difference. Perhaps another bottle? > Anyway, aren’t the pistons made of aluminum ? Or are they alloy with > magnesium ? Greased Lightning in cylinders sounds risky. > Ahhh what a difference!!! > It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old > Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er > out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the > spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to > purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used > carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting > them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were > supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled > the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems the > water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get rid > of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) > again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board (used > to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry > out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to get > even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was > amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment > when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white (soapy/oily/watery) > exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a > half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles > smoothe and is peppy again. > Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes trick… > The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but then > again it worked as desired). > Elliott > > Thanks MR. > > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still has > > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using a > > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery oil > > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I pass > > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause on > > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of engine > > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper and > > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > > Elliott > > > Hi Elliott, > > > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest way > I > > > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. The > > > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big expense > since I > > > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I forgot > to > > > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using Marvel > Mystery > > > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any > carbon/gunk > > > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than others. > I > > > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for the > first > > > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching > high > > > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes out > the > > > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > > > Best of luck, > > > MR > > > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > > > commercial.. > > > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > > O’reillys > > > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t checked > with > > > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about running > it > > > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been using > mobil > > 1 > > > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred > miles > > > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my > synethetic > > > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles > running > > > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now > they > > cost > > > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > > > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be worth > the > > > money.. oppinions? > > > Adair > > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better > with > > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the extra > > couple bucks and plan to keep her for awhile longer. > > Doc
Response:
I just studied the greased lightning orange blast for possibly cleaning the radiator on my 89 350, A/T. With the warning to not use on aluminum, I decided to use prestone super flush. I can see rust and gunk on the inside of the radiator. I don’t see much difference. Perhaps another bottle? Anyway, aren’t the pistons made of aluminum ? Or are they alloy with magnesium ? Greased Lightning in cylinders sounds risky. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Ahhh what a difference!!! > It was much more complicated than expected but runs great now. Old > Faithful sure spit out lots of crappy carbony gunk. After spouting er > out I used Marvel Mistery oil and re-soaked them (down the > spark-holes). I also used the other 1.5 quarts of the mistery oil to > purge-through the oil-system (via starter motor). Then I used > carb-cleaner to further dry-out/clean the cylindars. After spouting > them out I put back the plugs (dealing with crappy wires that were > supposedly "guarenteed for life") – and it would not start. I pulled > the plugs and they were soaked – no wonder it wouldn’t start. Seems the > water-based greased-lightning left water behind that was hard to get rid > of. So I resoaked with carb-cleaner and re-spouted (spin w/ starter) > again and more sludgy cruddy stuf sprayed all over the card-board (used > to keep from soaking everythign). This time I gave it an hour to dry > out, replaced the plugs and it barely started (throttle wide open to get > even a caugh at first). After a few tries it kept running and was > amazingly smoothe. A short drive and it was great – but for a moment > when I could smell soapy smell and it had blue/white (soapy/oily/watery) > exhaust and caughed. Brought home (1/10th mile) and let it idle for a > half hour. Another drive and wow – everything is A OK!!! It idles > smoothe and is peppy again. > Next time I may stick to the mistery-oil for the down-the-holes trick… > The water-based greased-lighning seemed too hard to get rid of (but then > again it worked as desired). > Elliott > Thanks MR. > It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still has > liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using a > can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery oil > through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I pass > this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause on > only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of engine > pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper and > replacing a rear fender may be worth it. > Elliott > > Hi Elliott, > > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest way I > > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. The > > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big expense since I > > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I forgot to > > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using Marvel Mystery > > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any carbon/gunk > > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than others. I > > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for the first > > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching high > > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes out the > > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > > Best of luck, > > MR > > > doc.. I actually saw a restore commercial on tv friday night… > > > I didn’t know they advertised, but it was a pretty convincing > > > commercial.. > > I used to use it in my old truck and I found that it did work, but > O’reillys > > stopped selling it and autozone never has had it.. I haven’t checked with > > the local napa place tho.. but I haven’t been to worried about running it > > b/c my new truck doesnt’ have over 100K just yet and I’ve been using mobil > 1 > > synethic oil for about 7k miles now.. since i’m only a few hundred miles > > away from 100k I was thinking about using it since i’m past my synethetic > > change over. What do you think Doc? think a 5.3l with 99,480 miles running > > mobil 1 would bennifit? oil changes used to cost me about $35, now they > cost > > around $45 and would be about $55 with RESTORE. > > but since I’m doing 6k mile oil changes now I think it would be worth the > > money.. oppinions? > > Adair > I switched mine over at 117K without any problems, and I feel better with > synthetic in the crankcase. I’d go for it if you can afford the extra > couple bucks and plan to keep her for awhile longer. > Doc
Response:
Thanks MR. It’s still soaking and the good news is that this morning it still has liquid in that cylinder. I will be filling it w/ Mobile-1 and using a can of Restore (it may be worth pumping a quart of marvel mistery oil through it first – to clean out the cleaner (if the parts store I pass this morning is open)… If this fixes it it saves us a car – cause on only 3 the car isn’t so great, and it’s just past the point of engine pullin in age. If it does work then straightening the rear bumper and replacing a rear fender may be worth it. Elliott – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi Elliott, > Hope the soaking does the trick for you. It is about the cheapest way I > know to take care of an engine using oil, besides using Restore. The > Restore has to be used at each oil change, but is not a big expense since I > buy it at Walmart for a couple of bucks I think for a 4 cyl. I forgot to > mention in the post that some of the Saturn owners are using Marvel Mystery > Oil to soak their pistons also. I would guess that most any carbon/gunk > type cleaner would do the trick though, some being better than others. I > think the reason that the bulletin recommends using Mobil One for the first > 3000 miles is that the synthetics do not form carbon when reaching high > temps in the combustion chamber. It turns to a white ash and goes out the > exhaust. Ask any two cycle racing guy. > Best of luck, > MR >MR, Thanks for the idea about the pour-down-the plugs ring-cleaner. >Couldn’t get the GM stuff so I bought a galon of Grease Lightning >cleaner (not the oil stuff but the grease-cutter spray-bottle refill). >My wife’s car is a saturn and the #4 (cyl on the right) is turning the >plug black (oily, not carbony). The other 3 are over-clean from all of >the injector cleaner we’ve been running for a year now. I don’t think >it’s a valve problem because it doesn’t smoke when driving. It runs >like crap at idle but ok at higher RPMs. It dirties the oil fast but >doesn’t have water in oil or oil in water, etc – so I think the head and >manifold gaskets are ok, etc. >Right now the Oil’s been flushed-drained, and it’s soaking with Grease >Lighning down the holes. Sure spouts like ol-faithful when turning w/ >starter (good drive-way cleaner too haha) – it takes more than a rag to >stop the spouts. Anyway it’s bublin out brown and seems to be really >cleaning it out. I’m hoping to unstick rings in that #4 cylinder (or >maybe that’s the #4 since it’s wired 1-2-4-3 (left to right). Will let >yall know how it works out. I have sprayed carb-cleaner in it before >and that did help for a short time – but not much. Hopefully this will >do it this time – and the restor w/ Mobile 1 sounds like a good idea too >(to keep it from resticking). Of coarse it’s possible it burned through >a piston or something miserable and thus too late – but 1 last try w/ >the cannons seems worth it (150Kmi – otherwise nice car). >I also also bought a can of Restore at autozone today (they do sell it >here). Also, I agree a Saturn ain’t a chevy truck, but an engine issue >like a stuck ring is common to all engines – I just replaced the rings >in a 2.8L V6 S-10 motor (1987) – and a couple of the pistons had stuck >rings. One of them was so stuck that no cleaner could possibly have >loosened it, another was stuck but probably would have freed w/ a >cleaner treatment – so it will be interesting tomarrow to see if this >does any good (or harm). >Elliott > > Snip > > >Nah, just love the shit, that’s all, he he he he. > > >I am truly wanting to test it out on my El Camino motor which was in > > >horrible shape when I bought it. Problem is it ain’t street legal so I > > >won’t be able to log the 500 miles and get it to kick >in > > >my garage (neighbors would love that, open headers right now, LOUD). > > >Doc > > Snip > > Say Doc; I have been using Restore in my Saturns which are notorius > > for using oil and it stopped them from using any oil at all between > > changes after the second oil change with additon of Restore. Now for > > the question. Saturn came out with a BULLETIN NO.: 94-T-59A that > > called for removal of the spark plugs and soaking pistons with GM > > Piston and Ring Cleaner (part # 12378549). Most owners report that > > they soaked over 24 hrs. The bulletin calls for removal of the > > cleaner by placing rags over the spark plug holes and cranking the > > engine. Then to do an oil change and use Mobil one for the first 3000 > > miles. Have you heard of doing this on any of the GM trucks etc. that > > use a little oil and if so, did it help free up the sticking or stuck > > oil and or compression rings. > > Thanks a bunch, > > MR > Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar
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