rust
Question:
I imagine the booklet is as well-written and intelligent as was the spam. —
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Just so you know…. you have flagrantly trampled the spirit an dcharter of > UseNet….. i.e., your idiotic, capitalized advertisement. > Additionally, you are not only addressing prospective clients, but you are > also addressing those that have already fallen victim to your particular > brand of substandard rust repair. > Enjoy your new found fame now that you have branded yourself a charlatan. > — > Jim Warman
Response:
Just so you know…. you have flagrantly trampled the spirit an dcharter of UseNet….. i.e., your idiotic, capitalized advertisement. Additionally, you are not only addressing prospective clients, but you are also addressing those that have already fallen victim to your particular brand of substandard rust repair. Enjoy your new found fame now that you have branded yourself a charlatan. — Jim Warman
Response:
Subj: RUST To: DAVEDM22 Subj: HIGHTIMES INNOVATIONS To: DAVEDM22 Subj: AUTOBODY To: DAVEDM22 IF YOU FEEL LIKE THE BOTTOM OF THE BARREL…MAKE $500,000 IN 15 YEARS: AUTOBODY DID IT FOR ME: AUTOBODY AT 14…FIRST DENT….DID IT GOOD 5 HP COMPRESSOR. BONDO PRIMER…SMOOTH WORK.THE FINISH PRODUCT AFTER PAINTED…FELT GOOD: ACCOMPLISHMENT LET IT DRY…LACQUER THINNER SEEPS THROUGH THE SKIN AND I ALWAYS HAD A HEADACHE FROM BONDO…MADE $600 A/WEEK THAT WAS GOOD BACK IN 1975 FOR A SMALL BUSINESS. 3 STALLS…THE VEHICLES I WORKED ON ARE OBSOLETE NOW…I WAS A RUST MAN COULDN’T DO COLLISION WORK. I’D GO NUTS TRYING TO STRAIGHTEN A UNI-BODY FRAME… RUST WAS MY GAME…PLASTIC SCREEN, ALUMINUM BASE, POP RIVOTS,BONDO, 15 YEARS EXPERIENCE. THEN GRIND IT ALL DOWN…THEN PUTTY (BONDO) OVER IT ALL. FOR $ 650 WE WOULD DO A COMPLETE PAINT JOB.IT WOULD LOOK GOOD TOO. I DID 90 CARS WHEN I WAS 18. DRILL HOLES, PANEL CUTTERS. MY BROTHER BOB LIKED TO USE THE PANEL CUTTERS. I NEVER DID COLLISION WORK…LEFT THAT UP TO JOHN,OUR EMPLOYEE.JUST ONE EMPLOYEE, OR ONE MAN OPERATION. I LEARNED FROM MY DAD TO DO WORK FOR USED CAR DEALERS…FAST AS POSSIBLE…ENAMEL. IT’S ALL BEEN REPLACED BY BETTER PAINTS 2003. DAD DID IT 30 YEARS THEN RETIRED AT 55. HE’S 76 NOW. ALL THOSE CARS ARE IN A JUNKYARD. THESE VEHICLES THEY DRIVE NOW ARE ROBOT BUILT. 2 -5HP COMPRESSORS IS BEST HOOKED TOGETHER…FOR PLENTY OF AIR PRESSURE WHILE 3 BODYMEN ARE USING THE AIR…GET STARTED WITH A $250 INVESTMENT,OR IN YOUR GARAGE. SEND $ 5.00 FOR INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO DO A PAINT JOB IN 1 DAY….FOR $650 LEGAL…30 PAGES…E-MAIL ME, OR CALL, OR WRITE. JAMES WEST 23701 WILSHIRE BLVD.E. ELKHART, IN. 46516 PH.# 574-226-2341 WEST’S AUTOBODY SHOP
Response:
: 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with : very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, : use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed Nail polish works well here. Although not the same as Imron, it does the trick. And if your bike isn’t bright red, you can get the clear kind! 
: 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water : in there. Some bikes (I.F., Rhygin, Fat City) don’t have drainage holes drilled in the Bottom bracket shell. This, obviously, can be a problem – unless… you can spray Krylon into the seat tube and in the BB shell to avoid rust in these areas. Another good thing to do is remove your seat every, say, month (or after a wet/rainy ride) and drain your frame by dumping it upside down. Don’t forget to grease your seatpost really well! : 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and : basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water : vapour can still get in there. There’s no such thing as too much grease 
— Hi. I’m on the Tufts Cycling Team. If you or your company would Like to sponsor a great bunch of racers, send me some e-mail. —
Response:
: > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this : > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? : In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. I stripped my cromo frame and used a steam device to put an even starter coat of rust on my frame in hot direct sunlight. It looks great with the $1500.00 worth of shiny alu and ti components and gets lighter every day. Ajax Titanium
Response:
>> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Way off buddy. Try buying some chrome-moly handle bar, then scratch the top and wet it. Leave it outside for couple of days and watch the rust spread! > tc >I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is >this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the >whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? >Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will >need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
OK, this guy got a better idea of what he’s talking about, however, he is not correct in saying that frames will not be damaged by outside rusts. From what I have seen, I can say this: water doesn’t get into good frames too easily, if it’s inside, vent holes will let the water out. paint chips are not good, it can put rust on the surface, which can spread like cancer. How to avoid rust? 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed surface. Lastly, apply light coats of touch-up paint on the surface. Use light layers and use as many layers as needed. 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water in there. 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water vapour can still get in there. That’s it, if you guys have more, please add to it. Vince "using my bro’s account" Cheng
Response:
: In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. Geez, I must be seeing some *really* substandard frames! I regularly spray custom paint jobs for people, and have seen lots of cro-mo frames with and without paint. Believe me, they do rust. To date, I have not seen a cro-mo-nickel frame, anyway Although I don’t recommend going crazy with it, a little diluted phosphoric acid brushed across a rust spot, and then rinsed clean *right away* with alcohol will clean up the rust. All usual warnings about dealing with dangerous chemicals apply (read – don’t have a glass with your bacon and eggs!) …aaron Diclaimer: all of my above writing is lies, lies, damn it!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Yeah, right. I’ll have to remember that next time I sand/touch-up the rust spots on my cro-moly bike. T.O’N.
Response:
> I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel and therefore will not rust. tc
Response:
I don’t know true that is–I have a gouge in my frame (cromoly Rockhopper) that has rusted. Just FYI.
Response:
> > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? > In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
WRONG! What differentiates stainless steels is the addition of nickel which is responsible for it’s rust free properties. Chro-moly, as the name may suggest, is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. Strong, but it’ll rust. I’m constantly amazed at the amount of misinformation and anecdotal engineering that’s spewed out in this group. There, I feel better. As far as preventing rust, just apply some touch-up paint.
Response:
I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
Response:
: 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with : very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, : use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed Nail polish works well here. Although not the same as Imron, it does the trick. And if your bike isn’t bright red, you can get the clear kind! : 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water : in there. Some bikes (I.F., Rhygin, Fat City) don’t have drainage holes drilled in the Bottom bracket shell. This, obviously, can be a problem – unless… you can spray Krylon into the seat tube and in the BB shell to avoid rust in these areas. Another good thing to do is remove your seat every, say, month (or after a wet/rainy ride) and drain your frame by dumping it upside down. Don’t forget to grease your seatpost really well! : 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and : basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water : vapour can still get in there. There’s no such thing as too much grease — Hi. I’m on the Tufts Cycling Team. If you or your company would Like to sponsor a great bunch of racers, send me some e-mail. —
Response:
: > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this : > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? : In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. I stripped my cromo frame and used a steam device to put an even starter coat of rust on my frame in hot direct sunlight. It looks great with the $1500.00 worth of shiny alu and ti components and gets lighter every day. Ajax Titanium
Response:
>> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Way off buddy. Try buying some chrome-moly handle bar, then scratch the top and wet it. Leave it outside for couple of days and watch the rust spread! > tc >I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is >this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the >whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? >Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will >need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
OK, this guy got a better idea of what he’s talking about, however, he is not correct in saying that frames will not be damaged by outside rusts. From what I have seen, I can say this: water doesn’t get into good frames too easily, if it’s inside, vent holes will let the water out. paint chips are not good, it can put rust on the surface, which can spread like cancer. How to avoid rust? 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed surface. Lastly, apply light coats of touch-up paint on the surface. Use light layers and use as many layers as needed. 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water in there. 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water vapour can still get in there. That’s it, if you guys have more, please add to it. Vince "using my bro’s account" Cheng
Response:
: In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. Geez, I must be seeing some *really* substandard frames! I regularly spray custom paint jobs for people, and have seen lots of cro-mo frames with and without paint. Believe me, they do rust. To date, I have not seen a cro-mo-nickel frame, anyway Although I don’t recommend going crazy with it, a little diluted phosphoric acid brushed across a rust spot, and then rinsed clean *right away* with alcohol will clean up the rust. All usual warnings about dealing with dangerous chemicals apply (read – don’t have a glass with your bacon and eggs!) …aaron Diclaimer: all of my above writing is lies, lies, damn it!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Yeah, right. I’ll have to remember that next time I sand/touch-up the rust spots on my cro-moly bike. T.O’N.
Response:
> I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel and therefore will not rust. tc
Response:
I don’t know true that is–I have a gouge in my frame (cromoly Rockhopper) that has rusted. Just FYI.
Response:
> > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? > In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
WRONG! What differentiates stainless steels is the addition of nickel which is responsible for it’s rust free properties. Chro-moly, as the name may suggest, is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. Strong, but it’ll rust. I’m constantly amazed at the amount of misinformation and anecdotal engineering that’s spewed out in this group. There, I feel better. As far as preventing rust, just apply some touch-up paint.
Response:
I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
Response:
: 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with : very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, : use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed Nail polish works well here. Although not the same as Imron, it does the trick. And if your bike isn’t bright red, you can get the clear kind! : 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water : in there. Some bikes (I.F., Rhygin, Fat City) don’t have drainage holes drilled in the Bottom bracket shell. This, obviously, can be a problem – unless… you can spray Krylon into the seat tube and in the BB shell to avoid rust in these areas. Another good thing to do is remove your seat every, say, month (or after a wet/rainy ride) and drain your frame by dumping it upside down. Don’t forget to grease your seatpost really well! : 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and : basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water : vapour can still get in there. There’s no such thing as too much grease — Hi. I’m on the Tufts Cycling Team. If you or your company would Like to sponsor a great bunch of racers, send me some e-mail. —
Response:
: > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this : > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? : In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. I stripped my cromo frame and used a steam device to put an even starter coat of rust on my frame in hot direct sunlight. It looks great with the $1500.00 worth of shiny alu and ti components and gets lighter every day. Ajax Titanium
Response:
>> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Way off buddy. Try buying some chrome-moly handle bar, then scratch the top and wet it. Leave it outside for couple of days and watch the rust spread! > tc >I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is >this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the >whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? >Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will >need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
OK, this guy got a better idea of what he’s talking about, however, he is not correct in saying that frames will not be damaged by outside rusts. From what I have seen, I can say this: water doesn’t get into good frames too easily, if it’s inside, vent holes will let the water out. paint chips are not good, it can put rust on the surface, which can spread like cancer. How to avoid rust? 1. If you have dings, first thing is clean off the surface rust with very fine sand paper. Then, wipe it with clean water and alcohol. Next, use your favorite primer and apply two thin layers on the exposed surface. Lastly, apply light coats of touch-up paint on the surface. Use light layers and use as many layers as needed. 2. Spry the vent holes with WD-40 every month or so to remove the water in there. 3. Lube your seat tube, steerer tube, stem, quick releases, and basically any cover steel surface. Even if they are covered, water vapour can still get in there. That’s it, if you guys have more, please add to it. Vince "using my bro’s account" Cheng
Response:
: In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel : and therefore will not rust. Geez, I must be seeing some *really* substandard frames! I regularly spray custom paint jobs for people, and have seen lots of cro-mo frames with and without paint. Believe me, they do rust. To date, I have not seen a cro-mo-nickel frame, anyway Although I don’t recommend going crazy with it, a little diluted phosphoric acid brushed across a rust spot, and then rinsed clean *right away* with alcohol will clean up the rust. All usual warnings about dealing with dangerous chemicals apply (read – don’t have a glass with your bacon and eggs!) …aaron Diclaimer: all of my above writing is lies, lies, damn it!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
I think you are way off here! Cro-moly will indeed rust and also why is this guy worried about a little ding on the outside of his frame when the whole inside is not painted and therfore exposed to the rusting scenario? Mountain bikes do not last forever, cro-moly ones anyway, and they will need to be replaced eventually, that little ding is cosmetic dude!
Response:
> In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust.
Yeah, right. I’ll have to remember that next time I sand/touch-up the rust spots on my cro-moly bike. T.O’N.
Response:
> I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel and therefore will not rust. tc
Response:
I don’t know true that is–I have a gouge in my frame (cromoly Rockhopper) that has rusted. Just FYI.
Response:
> > I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this > spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it?? > In case you have not heard, a cro-moly frame is a type of stainless steel > and therefore will not rust. > tc
WRONG! What differentiates stainless steels is the addition of nickel which is responsible for it’s rust free properties. Chro-moly, as the name may suggest, is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. Strong, but it’ll rust. I’m constantly amazed at the amount of misinformation and anecdotal engineering that’s spewed out in this group. There, I feel better. As far as preventing rust, just apply some touch-up paint.
Response:
I’ve dinged the paint on my Jamis Exile. It’s a cro-moly frame. Will this spot rust?? If so, what can I do to prevent it??
Response:
I had a 69 Chevy truck that had a hood with a lot of surface rust. You know the kind, where the surface is more rust than anything else. I took a sander and went over it with 100 grit. It still had rust pits and quite a bit of rust left. I then sprayed it with POR-15. Then sprayed a couple coats of KMart automotive primer. 2 years later I sold it and the primer was still holding up with no sign of lifting. > Hi, > Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, > is this stuff any good? > There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if > you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal > ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? > I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes > yet), the above product sounded interesting. > Thanks!
– BizarroTerl rec.autos.rod-n-custom
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Yes, Don’t use POR 15 !!! While it sticks to rust, it does nothing > to stop it !! Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is a > good bet. Clean and metal condition [ acid ] throughly rinse, and dry. > After Rustoleum is dry, go ahead and POR 15 to seal > primer. Do not undercoat floor, it’s better to see some failing > primer, and fix it cheap, than to have a beautiful finish with problems > underneath all that shiny tar. > Well, my shop just started using POR-15 a little while ago, and it seems > like a good product… > IF and only if you follow the directions exactly, and radically change > your definition of a rusted surface. For example: We painted a VW beetle > gas tank, after having wire-brushed, washed, de-greased, and applied > metal-ready. The final product looked rough (lots of old paint > underneath, but that was only a related problem) and peeled off with > distressing ease. I got some off with my fingers, and a dull utility > knife could peel off flakes 1in square. > After speaking with our supplier, I determined that when they say > "paint over rust" they mean that if you have a totally clean (bright, > shiny) piece of steel, and sprinkle a few drops of water on it and let it > dry; this surface you can paint over. We scraped all of the old paint and > POR-15 off, and I went over the entire surface with an angle-grinder with > a wire wheel. When I was done, the surface was shiny, my guy degreased > and used the Metal-ready (it really is important to keep it on there and > wet (by applying more) for at least 10-15 minutes ON A CLEAN SURFACE! I > guess if you have a moderately rusty (that’s real-world rust, not just an > orange spot that you can wipe off with your finger) then you have to leave > the Metal-ready on for the specified interval for heavily rusted surfaces > (30 min?). > My thoughts. POR-15 looks like a good product, the material itself > appears to be very tough, and adheres to its surface very well. It is not > a breakthrough in rust treatment or prevention. The only way to treat > rust is still, IMHO, to remove it. You can either grind/sand your surface > clean, acid-etch (that’s what Metal-Ready is) or replace the part, but you > have to start with a clean piece of metal. > As always, these are my opinions, backed with experience as indicated. > YMMV (in this case, it is guaranteed to, judging from the rabid fanatics > on both sides of this issue). > — > Later, > "The Crystal Wind is the storm, and the storm is data, and data is > life." -The Player’s Litany from "The Long Run" by Daniel K. Moran
In my experience the POR-15 will stick to rust – but if there is *any* grease on the surface, fuhgeddaboutit. Also the POR-15 will bond to the part only as strongly as the rust it’s applied over is – which means that as you say good prep work will be rewarded with a stronger finish. I think it’s real advantage is that it can be applied over a wire brushed finish whereas if you were going to use regular paint you would have to go another step and sandblast to ensure that the rust wouldn’t return. nate
Response:
I’ve used it before, but on a new, kit car. It was a Factory Five cobra kit. That stuff is unreal. Once its on, you can’t get it off. One part we painted with that stuff got bent, and we wanted to strip the por 15, bend it back, and repaint. We put it in the sandblaster and it still wouldn’t come off. We ended up just hammering out the bend with the por-15 still on, and it still didn’t show much damage to the finish. I’d like to find out if any shops will undercoat cars with it. I live in Michigan and the DOT has stock in the compaines that produce road salt. Others believe GM pays for 90% of it so people have to buy more new cars. Will – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, > is this stuff any good? > There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if > you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal > ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? > I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes > yet), the above product sounded interesting. > Thanks!
Response:
Por 15 really works, if you follow the instructions exactly. I had a problem area on my S-10 that kept coming back to haunt me, no matter how many times I sanded, primed, and repainted. The last time I fixed the area, I used Por 15, which was 6 years ago. It still looks perfect. I found that prepping with Metal Ready is key to success, and you must keep the treated area wet for at least 15 minutes. Also, and complete- ly contrary to logic, you are supposed to wipe down the Metal Ready with WATER, once it has had sufficient time to cover the area with zinc phosphate. I used two coats of Por 15 and it dried super smooth, with no brush marks. It’s also hard as nails. Robert Hoffman – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Hi, > Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, > is this stuff any good? > There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if > you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal > ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? > I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes > yet), the above product sounded interesting. > Thanks!
Response:
> Hi, > Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, > is this stuff any good? > There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if > you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal > ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? > I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes > yet), the above product sounded interesting. > Thanks! > Por 15 is great stuff! If you have extrnsive rust , the only way to do it
right is to cut it out and replace it with new metal,but it doe’s kill rust. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –
Response:
Yes, Don’t use POR 15 !!! While it sticks to rust, it does nothing to stop it !! Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is a good bet. Clean and metal condition [ acid ] throughly rinse, and dry. After Rustoleum is dry, go ahead and POR 15 to seal primer. Do not undercoat floor, it’s better to see some failing primer, and fix it cheap, than to have a beautiful finish with problems underneath all that shiny tar.
Response:
> Yes, Don’t use POR 15 !!! While it sticks to rust, it does nothing > to stop it !! Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer is a > good bet. Clean and metal condition [ acid ] throughly rinse, and dry. > After Rustoleum is dry, go ahead and POR 15 to seal > primer. Do not undercoat floor, it’s better to see some failing > primer, and fix it cheap, than to have a beautiful finish with problems > underneath all that shiny tar.
Well, my shop just started using POR-15 a little while ago, and it seems like a good product… IF and only if you follow the directions exactly, and radically change your definition of a rusted surface. For example: We painted a VW beetle gas tank, after having wire-brushed, washed, de-greased, and applied metal-ready. The final product looked rough (lots of old paint underneath, but that was only a related problem) and peeled off with distressing ease. I got some off with my fingers, and a dull utility knife could peel off flakes 1in square. After speaking with our supplier, I determined that when they say "paint over rust" they mean that if you have a totally clean (bright, shiny) piece of steel, and sprinkle a few drops of water on it and let it dry; this surface you can paint over. We scraped all of the old paint and POR-15 off, and I went over the entire surface with an angle-grinder with a wire wheel. When I was done, the surface was shiny, my guy degreased and used the Metal-ready (it really is important to keep it on there and wet (by applying more) for at least 10-15 minutes ON A CLEAN SURFACE! I guess if you have a moderately rusty (that’s real-world rust, not just an orange spot that you can wipe off with your finger) then you have to leave the Metal-ready on for the specified interval for heavily rusted surfaces (30 min?). My thoughts. POR-15 looks like a good product, the material itself appears to be very tough, and adheres to its surface very well. It is not a breakthrough in rust treatment or prevention. The only way to treat rust is still, IMHO, to remove it. You can either grind/sand your surface clean, acid-etch (that’s what Metal-Ready is) or replace the part, but you have to start with a clean piece of metal. As always, these are my opinions, backed with experience as indicated. YMMV (in this case, it is guaranteed to, judging from the rabid fanatics on both sides of this issue). — Later, "The Crystal Wind is the storm, and the storm is data, and data is life." -The Player’s Litany from "The Long Run" by Daniel K. Moran
Response:
Hi, Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, is this stuff any good? There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes yet), the above product sounded interesting. Thanks!
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> Hi, > Has anyone out there used a product called Por 15 and or Metal Ready, > is this stuff any good? > There Internet site said you can paint the Por 15 right over rust, and if > you were painting aluminum or galvanized metal you need to treat with metal > ready first, and then paint over rust. This sound right? > I just have some light surface rust on 1969 Plymouth floorboards (no holes > yet), the above product sounded interesting. > Thanks!
The stuff is great. Just make sure that you have all grease and dirt off the area in question, and any unrusted metal needs to be roughed up somehow (sandblast?) as the POR-15 likes some "tooth" to grip to. Otherwise it works as advertised. I used it on my 56 Golden Hawk (and helped a friend use it on several resto projects) and was happy with the results. nate
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